Yep, lots of free stuff out there. My ftp software is WS_FTP Pro but there are lots of them out there.
For page design I've used EditPlus a lot. I have an older version but the new one is here: http://www.editplus.com/. It's not quite as point-n-click as Dreamweaver, I guess, but it's still easy to use. I'm sure there are lots more free or cheap editors around too.